There is reasonably good richness and mid-palate concentration to the dusty and moderately robust flavors that possess solid depth and length on the youthfully austere finale

pencil lead and oak spices before displaying a balanced structure with firm gripping tannins that will need another year or two in the bottle to settle

a major change over the recent past

has typified this estate ever since I began visiting it in the mid-1980s

Tasted blind at a private dinner in Bordeaux

Van Volxem, Goldberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs Brut Zero There is reasonably good richnessFrom slightly reddish slate soils, the Wawerner 2015 Goldberg Riesling has a very clear, fine and flinty bouquet of perfectly ripe Riesling fruits. Round, intense and piquant, with a good concentration and a ripe, lush fruit, this is a medium to full bodied, yet finessed and elegantly dry Riesling. It has a crystalline finish and a good, still somewhat bitter and yeasty length. Keep the Goldberg for five more years in case you prefer it less fleshy,